In general, most Pinot Noir wines will have a fruity aroma when
young, a lighter tannic structure than wines from Bordeaux,
for instance, and a lighter color as well. In younger Pinots
around the world, the most usual flavor is some kind of cherry—red
or black.
That is the basis for New World Pinots, and for young or simple
Red Burgundies. As the Burgundies get better and older, the
aromas turn into bouquets and these are more often of leather,
mushroom and other slightly gaming rich odors and flavors with
smaller amounts of the primary fruit flavors. These wines may
be darker, though they will not have the purplish color of red
Bordeaux, or reds from California. They can still be powerful
and dense, but they have more elegance and exotic aromas. It
is the combination of flavor and fragrance that makes Burgundy
what it is. Each area produces a different style of wine because
each growing area has a slightly different combination of the
influences mentioned above.
So, keeping in mind that all red wines from the Côte d'Or
are made with the same grape variety, and that the more specific
the geographic information on the label, the higher level of
classification and price, and hopefully quality; when first
dealing with Red Burgundies it is often best to start by buying
a simple Bourgogne Rouge. This wine will no doubt be less complex
than a village wine, much less a premier or grand cru, and it
will likely be lighter. What it should be is pale red, refreshing,
redolent of cherries or other red fruit and perhaps earthier
tones, and a bit fragile. It will also be all Pinot Noir, from
Burgundy, and “inexpensive.” The quotation marks
should let you know that in Burgundy, inexpensive is a relative
term. There are few $10 Burgundies to be found. An inexpensive
Burgundy is under $20, even if just barely.
At this price, the flaws should not be glaring. Light is one
thing, thin is another; earthiness can be a positive note, but
moldy or overly funky can be a sign of a poorly made wine. The
wine should be pleasing, even if it is simply not as ripe, concentrated
or complex as a better wine. One might even find a Bourgogne
Rouge with another more specific geographic term, which might
point to a somewhat finer wine. Ask the salesman in the store
for the best simple red Burgundy he has and try it. If you like
it, note the producer or importer.
Another less expensive entry into Burgundy is with a Passetoutgrains,
which has at least one-third Gamay grapes along with the Pinot
Noir. These wines are easy drinking, less expensive, but the
Gamay can dominate, and so they are less an introduction to
Burgundy and more of a side trip.
Now, up until this point, you have gotten away without getting
in too deep. You have tried a couple of simple reds, washed
down a roasted chicken with one bottle, or had a blind tasting
with friends with one of the Passetoutgrains as the ringer and
it has not cost you too much.
Stop here if you want, and the experiences you will have had
will do for a time. If you proceed further you run the risk
of spending a lot of thought and ample amounts of money, and
worse than that, you might become all but addicted to a Burgundy
habit. There are those who after tasting a few finer Burgundies
lose their desire for other wines, which they consider inferior,
plodding beasts compared to their deep spiritual wine that seems
to combine heaven and earth in one bottle.
As a strategy, one could start with a lower priced area, an
area less likely to offer up a transcendant experience, but
can offer up a good value. Marsannay is the Northern most appellation
in the Côte d'Or, and therefore, the northern most appellation
in the Côte de Nuit, and is probably more famous for rosés
rather than reds or whites. It has, in fact, been an appellation
for only about twenty years and it still does not have a specific
or identifiable character. Just south of there is Fixin, which,
in turn, is just north of the very highly regarded Gevry-Chambertin.
Fixin, being an established, but less sought after, appellation
is the perfect place for a value-oriented Burgundy researching
wine drinker to go. The wines from here are somewhat similar
to those of its more renowned neighbor, but less pricey. The
reason these wines are not as highly regarded is the lack of
power and especially the fragrance of the wines from Gevry-Chambertin.
Gevry-Chambertin has more Grand Crus than any other village
in Burgundy. This would seem to imply that it could produce
some of the best wine on the Côte D’or. This is
so, and so the prices reflect this. Because of this reputation,
it is a bit of a minefield and you will not likely find any
deals here. On the contrary, you will pay a handsome price for
even lesser wines from this renowned area. For this reason,
a lot of research is necessary, especially of the importers
and the producers, but also of the vintages. The wines can be
very rich and complex, with deep color and firm tannins, and
are considered to be the most balanced in all the possible virtues
of a fine red Burgundy.
South of Gevry is Morey St. Denis, which also has wonderful
wines. The wines of Morey are overshadowed by the wines from
Gevry, which tend to be more expressive and savory, whereas
the wines from Morey tend toward elegance and fruit. Just to
the south of Morey St.-Denis is Chambolle-Musigny, and then
Vougeot, Vosne-Romanée, Flagey-Échezeaux and Nuits-St.-George.
Within these appellations are some of the most spectacular and
deep and powerful wines. The Grand Crus include some of the
most famous names, including Le Musigny, La Romanée,
Romanée-Conti, Richebourg, La Tache, Grand Échezeaux
and Échezeaux. The wines from any of these vineyards
or from any of the appellations would be worth an article or
even more. They are wines that are dreamed of, hoarded, speculated
on, rhapsodized about and hopefully drunk and enjoyed. They
are hard to find and harder to afford. In the end, the best
of these wines are indescribable in the same way that great
music is indescribable.
Still, do not get too caught up in the equivalent of the ratings
game, respecting or seeking wines only from the most highly
prized areas. The price quality ratio in Burgundy is skewed,
but there are wines of charm and great interest in lesser areas.
Only buying “the best” really takes as little thought
as only buying the cheapest, or the wine with the most colorful
label. Seek out, try out, find out, learn by drinking and find
the hidden gem.
Simeon Joffe apprenticed as a brewer in Germany, and after that,
spent six years on Long Island as a winemaker. Since moving
to the Berkshires, he has been working as a wine salesman and
consultant. You may reach him at axisofvino @gmail.com.
|
